Mid-Century Modern architecture can be polarising. Some like its straightforward design, the honesty of exposed materials and the almost complete lack of ornament, programmatically pursued to ensure the buildings are as clean and simple as possible. Others, instead, lament that the minimal approach loved by modernist designers leads to plain and boring outcomes. While we know how to love a baroque palace or a neoclassical villa, we stand among the supporters of Mid-Century Modern and believe it’s very easy to love a good modernist building.
Too often, indeed, people think the face of modernism is ugly apartment blocks from the suburbs of big European cities; but those are not, in fact, real architecture. A well-planned, thoughtfully designed modernist house shows instead all the character and uniqueness you would expect from an older project and comes with a fundamental added value: timelessness.
Lake Como: the unexpected Italian Mid-Century Modern
This “good kind” of Mid-Century Modern architecture flourished in big cities, for several different reasons; however, it is not always limited to areas like Milan, Rome, Turin or Naples. One of the cores of Italian modernism is, believe it or not, Lake Como. Yes, that’s right: a place known for its antique villas and old-times allure is also filled with modern gems designed over the course of four decades, starting around 1930.
You might know Giuseppe Terragni and Pietro Lingeri for their Milanese buildings – like Casa Rustici; and you might have seen Mario Radice’s painting in Italian museums. What you probably don’t expect, though, is that they also designed private houses, monuments and residential buildings on the shores of Lake Como. As natives of the area, we are long-time admirers of these works and often tour them to gather inspiration; now, we decided to put together our own travel list and share it with you. So here are our favourite Mid-Century Modern spots around Lake Como!
Casa del Fascio
Giuseppe Terragni
Let’s start from the city centre – and what is possibly the most famous building on the list. Built between 1933 and 1936, it originally hosted the local offices of the Fascist party. As the story goes, however, Terragni had to fight hard for his groundbreaking design to be approved and went as far as changing several details during the construction only to unveil the final result as he dropped the scaffoldings. The monumental building, located just across the road from the Cathedral, is just as majestic; it’s interesting to notice the dialogue between the white marble of the facade and the Musso marble of the ancient church.
Monumento ai Caduti
Giuseppe Terragni (Antonio Sant’Elia)
Not far from Casa del Fascio, directly overlooking the lake, a white stone monument stands tall against the blue water and green mountains. It’s a memorial to the soldiers from Como who died fighting in World War I, and was designed by Terragni – even though the inspiration admittedly came from a sketch by futurist painter and architect Antonio Sant’Elia. Ironically, Sant’Elia – born in Como in 1888 – never saw any of his designs come to life, as he died near Trieste during the war and he is among those remembered by this now-iconic landmark.
Asilo Sant’Elia
Giuseppe Terragni
The names of Terragni and Sant’Elia are also linked in this kid’s school, designed by the former and dedicated to the latter. Built immediately after Casa del Fascio (1936-1938), the school is located a little off the city centre, at the core of a then-booming working-class neighbourhood. Wide glass facades create a direct connection between the rooms and the outer space, enhancing the concept of “open-air schooling”. Interestingly, Terragni did not just design the shell – he also penned the furniture, including the famous “Sant’Elia chair” with a continuous frame in tubular metal.
Canottieri Lario
Gianni Mantero
Moving back to the lakeside, Viale Puecher could be considered the beating heart of Razionalismo Lariano. During the 1930s, the avenue connecting the War Memorial and Aero Club Como was completely redesigned to host several sports venues. The masterplan, envisioned once again by Giuseppe Terragni, included a football stadium, an inside swimming and diving pool and the sailing and rowing circles. Specifically, the rowing circle was built after a project by Gianni Mantero and stands out for its clean, timeless lines. The restaurant has recently been open to the general public, and the terrace offers a wonderful view of the lake.
Casa Bini
Cesare Cattaneo, Mario Radice
Located in a quiet residential neighbourhood on the hills of Monte Olimpino, Casa Bini is a private residence designed by Cesare Cattaneo. Its clean volumes are purely modernist, but include some interesting and unexpected decorative quirks such as the sloped facade overlooking the garden. What makes the villa really unique is the fresco by futurist painter Mario Radice, found on said facade. Unfortunately, a tall hedge all around makes it rather hard to catch a glance of the building, but it’s still worth a stop.
Casa Cattaneo
Cesare Cattaneo
Slightly younger than Terragni, Cattaneo graduated as an architect in 1935. As a graduation gift, he received a land plot facing the main road of Cernobbio, where he built “Casa Cattaneo” – a mixed-use building with stores at road level and three residential floors. The house is a manifesto of his design theory: the clean yet articulate facade is built following the golden ratio, and the interconnected volumes give a sense of complexity to the whole. Currently, the first floor of the house hosts the Cattaneo Archive, a collection of the architect’s projects and works; on special occasions throughout the year, the space is open to the public.
Case per Artisti
Pietro Lingeri
Lake Como only has one island – Isola Comacina. Despite its modest size, different buildings stand among its green trees: a restaurant, a monastery, a church, and three little cabins. Conceived as retreats for artists and located on the eastern side of the island, with a direct view of the lake, they bring the signature of Pietro Lingeri. An extensive restoration, carried out at the turn of the Millennium, brought the houses back to their original splendour highlighting the seamless cross-contamination of traditional local architecture and modernist ideas.
Villa AMILA
Pietro Lingeri
The exotic-sounding name “AMILA” is actually an acronym, standing for (translated) Lake Como Italian Motonautic Association. The small house was designed by Pietro Lingeri and built on a grass gently descending into the water. Given its nautical vocation, it shows several ship-inspired details (porthole windows, a steep ladder climbing to the observation deck on the roof and even the overall layout). The rounded walls at the two ends of the building bring an interesting change to the usually sharp lines of Mid-Century Modern architecture. Finally, the cast-concrete diving platform protruding over the lake looks just as futuristic as it did ninety years ago when it was built.
Casa per il Weekend
Giulio Minoletti
This last one stands on the opposite side of Lake Como, on the Lecco branch. Built in the early 1940s, it was designed by Giiulio Minoletti – a modernist architect known especially for his residential buildings in Milano. The house, conceived as a weekend retreat for a single man, is tucked between the road and the water in Fiumelatte, near Varenna. It is the result of Minoletti’s research on minimum-space living, and a perfect example of integration between man, architecture and nature. Recently restored, it is only visible from the water; it is so unique and special that it’s worth a dedicated boat trip.
Of course, Razionalismo Lariano is much more than these buildings – that nonetheless sum up its main features. Below, you’ll find a map featuring more spots to explore Mid-Century Modern architecture around Lake Como, and we will keep expanding it in the future. And if you set out on a Lake trip to discover these buildings, don’t forget to check out our favourite Como restaurants!
